Where to Stay in Lake Garda

A medieval town at the tip of a long thin peninsula reaching into the southern lake, entered over a drawbridge past a moated Scaligero castle. Beyond the old town are the Grotte di Catullo, the remains of a large Roman villa on the headland, and thermal springs that have kept spa hotels here for a century.

Good to know: The most expensive and most visited town on the lake, and day-trip coaches fill the old streets from mid-morning until late afternoon. It is genuinely lovely early and after six, which is the argument for sleeping here rather than visiting. Cars cannot enter the historic centre, so check what your hotel says about parking before you arrive.

The largest town on the southern shore and the practical capital of the lake, with a harbour, a decent old centre and a proper year-round population. Trains from Milan, Verona and Venice stop here directly, ferries leave from the harbour, and there are more bars and restaurants open in the evening than anywhere else on Garda.

Good to know: Less picturesque than Sirmione and it feels like a working town rather than a resort, which is exactly why some people prefer it. The best choice if you are arriving by train, travelling without a car, or want somewhere that does not shut down out of season.

A fortified town at the south-eastern corner where the lake drains into the Mincio, with Venetian walls, canals through the middle and a mainline station. Verona is about half an hour by train, and the big theme parks sit a short bus or shuttle ride away, which is why it fills with families in summer.

Good to know: The theme-park trade defines the summer here, so it is busy, cheerful and not especially Italian in July and August. Good value, very easy to reach, and the walled centre is more attractive than its reputation suggests. Quieter and rather flat out of season.

The town at the northern tip, in Trentino rather than Veneto or Lombardy, hemmed in by near-vertical rock. It has a handsome arcaded square, a lakeside promenade and a beach, and the reliable afternoon wind has made it and neighbouring Torbole the centre of sailing and windsurfing on Garda.

Good to know: Noticeably cooler than the south, which is a relief in August and a drawback in May. It is about an hour and a half from Sirmione by road and there is no railway, so this end suits people who want mountains, cycling and water sports rather than Roman ruins and vineyards.

A tight cluster of old streets under another Scaligero castle on the north-eastern shore, with a small harbour and steep lanes running down to it. The rotating cable car climbs Monte Baldo from the edge of town, and the view from the top takes in the whole length of the lake.

Good to know: Small, so it feels crowded quickly in high summer and the parking is limited. The cable car queue is long by mid-morning, which is a real advantage of staying here rather than driving in for the day. Ferries connect it to Limone and Riva easily; reaching the south takes a while.

A village on the north-western shore squeezed between the water and a wall of rock, named for the stone lemon houses terraced above it. A cycle and footpath cantilevered out over the lake runs north from the town and is the single most dramatic short walk on Garda.

Good to know: Beautiful and very touristy, with a main street that is largely souvenir shops in season. There is not much to do beyond the setting itself, so it works better as a two or three night stop than a week. The road in and out is a series of tunnels and can be slow in summer.

Two neighbouring towns on the flatter eastern shore, a short drive apart. Bardolino gives its name to the local red and is surrounded by vineyards running up the hillside, while Lazise keeps its Venetian walls and a small harbour. Both have long lakefront promenades and easy swimming.

Good to know: The most relaxed and best value part of the lake, and the easiest for cycling since the land is flat here. Neither town is dramatic, which is the point. Verona is about forty minutes away, so this shore works well if you want to combine the lake with the city.