Win a trip to Santorini for two, $3,000Enter free
Skip to main content

Where to Stay in Puglia

Puglia is a long region and the mistake people make is treating it as one place. The heel runs about four hours end to end, the two coasts have different seas, and the countryside inland is nothing like either. Almost nobody should try to cover it from a single base, and the useful question is not which town is prettiest but which stretch you want to be inside.

See hotels in PugliaLive prices for your dates
By Emma9 min readPublished
Table of contents
The clifftop old town of Polignano a Mare above the Adriatic in Puglia
Photo: acediscovery · CC BY 4.0

In Brief

Where should you stay in Puglia?

Stay in or near Ostuni for a first visit. It is a white hilltop town about halfway down the region, within half an hour of the Valle d'Itria countryside, the trulli towns and the Adriatic beaches, so you can reach most of northern and central Puglia without moving hotel. If you are travelling by train, base in Polignano a Mare or Monopoli instead. For the deep south and the best beaches, base in Lecce.

Key takeaways

  • First visit: Ostuni or the Valle d'Itria, central enough to reach both coasts and the trulli.
  • No car? Bari, Polignano a Mare, Monopoli and Lecce are the towns on the mainline railway.
  • Two bases beats one. North around Ostuni, then south around Lecce, is the standard split.
  • The masseria, a converted fortified farmhouse, is the local stay and worth at least a couple of nights.

Puglia towns at a glance

The best areas to stay in Puglia, compared for vibe, price and who each suits.

AreaBest forPriceIn a word
Ostuni and aroundfirst timers, romance$$The white town on the hill, and the best all-round base
Valle d'Itria: Locorotondo, Cisternino, Martina Francafood, romance$$Trulli country, and the best food in the region
Polignano a Marefirst timers, romance$$Cliff-top old town, sea caves, and a train station
Monopolibudget, food$$A working harbour town, quieter than its neighbour
Lecce and the Salentosightseeing, nightlife$$Baroque city in soft stone, and the road to two seas
Baribudget, first timers$The arrival city, and better than its reputation
Salento coast: Otranto and Gallipolifamilies, nightlife$$Where the beaches are, and where August happens
Compare all hotels in PugliaFilter by area, price and map
  • Free cancellation on most rooms
  • No booking fee
  • Prices on Trip.com
Flights to PugliaCompare airlines and dates

Best areas to stay in Puglia

Ranked best-first, with the vibe, who it suits and an honest catch for each. Tap a filter to match an area to your trip.

Find your area - what matters most?

All 7 areas in Puglia, best first.

  • Ostuni and around in Puglia

    Ostuni and around

    $$ · Mid-range

    The white town on the hill, and the best all-round base

    Best for:First-timersRomanceFood & wine

    A town of whitewashed houses stacked on a hill above the olive groves, about eight kilometres inland from the Adriatic. The old centre is a maze of lanes and staircases with a fifteenth-century cathedral at the top and views down to the sea, and the country roads around it are lined with masserie.

    Good to know
    Central enough to reach the trulli towns, the Valle d'Itria and the coast in under forty minutes, which is why it works so well as a single base. The old town is steep and largely stepped, so pick your accommodation with your luggage in mind. The train station sits several kilometres below the town, so you need a bus or taxi.
    See Ostuni and around hotelsLive prices for your dates
  • Valle d'Itria: Locorotondo, Cisternino, Martina Franca in Puglia

    Valle d'Itria: Locorotondo, Cisternino, Martina Franca

    $$ · Mid-range

    Trulli country, and the best food in the region

    Best for:Food & wineRomanceLuxury

    The high inland valley scattered with conical dry-stone trulli, wrapped around three small hill towns. Locorotondo is a circle of white houses on a ridge, Cisternino is known for butcher-grills where you pick the meat and they cook it, and Martina Franca is the biggest and most baroque of the three.

    Good to know
    The most rewarding part of Puglia to sleep in and the least practical without a car, since the local railway is slow and infrequent. This is masseria country, so it is where the converted farmhouse hotels with pools and olive groves are. Evenings are quiet and the towns are small.
    See Valle d'Itria: Locorotondo, Cisternino, Martina Franca hotelsLive prices for your dates
  • Polignano a Mare in Puglia

    Polignano a Mare

    $$ · Mid-range

    Cliff-top old town, sea caves, and a train station

    Best for:First-timersRomanceSightseeing

    A small old town built on limestone cliffs directly above the Adriatic, with a famous cove beach wedged between the rock walls and terraces looking straight down at the water. The mainline train stops here, putting Bari half an hour north and Monopoli a few minutes south.

    Good to know
    The single best choice if you are car-free, and one of the prettiest places in the region. It is also very small and takes a lot of day visitors, so the centre is crowded from late morning through the evening in summer. The cove beach is tiny and gets uncomfortably full.
    See Polignano a Mare hotelsLive prices for your dates
  • Monopoli in Puglia

    Monopoli

    $$ · Mid-range

    A working harbour town, quieter than its neighbour

    Best for:BudgetFood & wineFamilies

    A proper town rather than a viewpoint, ten minutes down the coast from Polignano, with a fishing harbour full of blue boats, a walled old centre and a castle on the water. It has more restaurants, more everyday life and considerably fewer coaches than its more photographed neighbour.

    Good to know
    The best value on this stretch of coast and also on the mainline railway, so it competes directly with Polignano and usually wins on price and calm. Less dramatic to look at. Good base for reaching the Valle d'Itria inland, though you still want a car for that.
    See Monopoli hotelsLive prices for your dates
  • Lecce and the Salento in Puglia

    Lecce and the Salento

    $$ · Mid-range

    Baroque city in soft stone, and the road to two seas

    Best for:SightseeingNightlifeFood & wine

    The main city of the deep south, built in a honey-coloured limestone soft enough to carve, which is why almost every facade in the centre is covered in baroque decoration. It has a Roman amphitheatre in the main square, a proper university-town evening, and both the Adriatic and Ionian coasts within about forty minutes.

    Good to know
    The right base for the southern half of the region and the beaches people actually rave about, and it is on the mainline railway. It is not on the sea itself, so you drive or take a bus to swim. Inland Salento gets very hot in July and August.
    See Lecce and the Salento hotelsLive prices for your dates
  • Bari in Puglia

    Bari

    $ · Budget

    The arrival city, and better than its reputation

    Best for:BudgetFirst-timersFood & wine

    The regional capital, with the airport, the main station and the ferry port, plus a genuinely good walled old town where women make orecchiette in the street and the basilica holds the relics of Saint Nicholas. The nineteenth-century grid south of it has the shopping and most of the hotels.

    Good to know
    Worth a night at either end of a trip rather than a week, since you will be leaving from here anyway and the old town is a pleasant surprise. Cheapest rooms in the region. Keep an eye on your bag in the old town and around the station, which is the one part of Puglia where that advice is genuinely needed.
    See Bari hotelsLive prices for your dates
  • Salento coast: Otranto and Gallipoli in Puglia

    Salento coast: Otranto and Gallipoli

    $$ · Mid-range

    Where the beaches are, and where August happens

    Best for:FamiliesNightlifeBudget

    The two coastal towns at the bottom of the heel, Otranto on the Adriatic with a castle and a cathedral floor mosaic, Gallipoli on the Ionian with an island old town and the flatter, warmer, shallower sea. The stretch between them holds the best swimming in Puglia.

    Good to know
    Glorious in June and September and close to unbearable in the first three weeks of August, when the whole of Italy arrives, roads clog and prices double. Out of season much of it closes. Only base here if swimming is the main point of the trip.
    See Salento coast: Otranto and Gallipoli hotelsLive prices for your dates

Where not to stay in Puglia

Puglia is safe and rural for the most part, and the only place where ordinary city caution applies is Bari, around the station and in the quieter corners of the old town after dark. The real errors here are logistical. The biggest is picking one base and expecting to see the whole region, when Lecce to Polignano is around two hours each way and the far south is further still. Split the trip. The second is booking a masseria in the countryside without checking how far it is from a town, because many sit twenty minutes down a farm track and commit you to driving to every meal. The third is arriving in the first three weeks of August, when Italian holidays fill the coast, prices double and the Salento roads jam. And the last is confusing Puglia with Matera, which is beautiful and frequently sold as part of a Puglia trip but sits over the border in Basilicata, an hour and a half from Ostuni.

Getting around Puglia

Bari is the main airport, with Brindisi a smaller alternative further south and better placed for the Salento. The mainline railway runs down the Adriatic coast from Bari through Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, Fasano, Ostuni and Brindisi to Lecce, and it is fast and cheap, so a car-free trip along that line genuinely works. What it does not reach is the interior: the Valle d'Itria and the trulli towns are served only by a slow local narrow-gauge line with sparse timetables, and Ostuni's station sits a few kilometres below the town. If you want the countryside, the masserie or the smaller beaches, hire a car, and be aware that the historic centres are restricted traffic zones with cameras, so park outside the walls rather than driving in. Distances are longer than they look on a map and summer traffic on the coast roads is slow.

Where to stay in Puglia: FAQ

The questions travelers ask most when choosing an area.

Ostuni, or a masseria in the countryside around it. It sits roughly halfway down the region on a hill above the olive groves, and from there the Valle d'Itria, the trulli towns of Alberobello and Locorotondo, and the Adriatic beaches are all within about forty minutes. That makes it the one base from which a first visitor can see most of northern and central Puglia without changing hotel. The old town is steep and stepped, so think about luggage, and you will want a car.

On the mainline railway, which means Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, Bari or Lecce. Polignano is the prettiest of them and the trains put Bari half an hour away and Lecce about an hour and a half. Monopoli is ten minutes further down the same line, quieter and cheaper. Lecce is the base for the south. What you give up is the interior, because the Valle d'Itria and the trulli towns are only served by a slow local line with very few trains, so you would need a tour or a taxi for those.

A week is about right, and the standard shape is to split it: three or four nights around Ostuni or the Valle d'Itria for the white towns, the trulli and the masserie, then three or four in or near Lecce for the baroque and the Salento beaches. Five days works if you stay north and skip the deep south. Ten days lets you add Matera over the border and slow the driving down. Trying to do the whole region from one hotel in four days is the most common way to spoil it.

A masseria is an old fortified farmhouse, built thick-walled and inward-facing when this coast was raided, and many have been converted into hotels with olive groves, courtyards and pools. Staying in one for at least a couple of nights is the most distinctive thing you can do in Puglia and they are often better value than a comparable hotel in Tuscany. The thing to check before booking is the distance to a town, because plenty sit twenty minutes down an unlit farm track, which means driving to every meal and no evening walk.

The Salento, at the bottom of the heel, where the Adriatic and Ionian coasts nearly meet. The Ionian side around Gallipoli and Pescoluse has the flat, shallow, very clear water and long sandy stretches, while the Adriatic side near Otranto is rockier with coves. Further north the coast around Monopoli and Polignano is limestone cliffs and small coves rather than beaches, lovely to look at and less easy to swim from. Base in or near Lecce if beaches are the reason for the trip.

The first three weeks of August, when Italian holidays fill the whole region, the Salento coast roads jam, prices roughly double and the small towns become hard work. It is also genuinely hot inland then. The other end of the problem is winter: from November to March much of the coast and many masserie simply close, and the Salento in particular empties out. May, June, September and early October are the good months, with warm sea in September and far fewer people.

No, and it catches people out when they plan. Matera sits over the regional border in Basilicata, though it is very commonly sold as part of a Puglia trip because it is close: about an hour and a half from Ostuni and a little over an hour from Bari by road. It is worth the detour, since the cave dwellings carved into the ravine are unlike anything in Puglia itself. Just build it in as a night away or a long day trip rather than assuming it is around the corner from your base.

Continue Planning Your Trip

Photo credits (7)

Photos via Wikimedia Commons, used under their respective licences.